We fell in love with Umbria on the first day we arrived. The nature, the food and wine, the people, the music, the lake – all of it together made Umbria for us a perfect place to live.
Umbria is called the Green Heart of Italy and I can quite surely say that is all this and much more.
It is one of the smallest regions in Italy, and its landscape is characterized by hills full of olive trees, vineyards, and woods.
Umbria is the region of olive oil, salami, lentils, truffles, chocolate, and honey – and its restaurants delight in making the most of the local produce. Umbria has a proud winemaking tradition.
There could be so many things to tell about Umbria, but to sum all up here is why it is a perfect place to live for us:
1.The amazing landscape
Umbria is covered in green hills cloaked in ancient vineyards and olive groves. Small historical villages almost on top of every hill, narrow roads, a lot of trees and greenery all around. Outside the city of Terni are the spectacular double cascading Marmore Falls. Built by the Romans around 271 BCE – a sight you do not want to miss.
The largest lake in Umbria and Italy’s biggest non-alpine lake, Trasimeno is home to three islands, Isola Maggiore, Isola Minore and Isola Polvese. Isola Polvese hosts an amazing nature park, established in 1995, it offers hiking trails that pass ancient fortresses, old churches, and Roman ruins.
It is enough just to take a ride through Umbrian countryside – go up and down the hill on the small curvy roads to fully fall in love with the place. Take a bicycle ride around lake Trasimeno combined with some bird watching or rent a boat and go out to experience the lake Trasimeno at full.
2. The art, music, and history
For us Umbria is all about the music. Each July, musicians and fans from all over the world descend on Perugia for the highly anticipated summer jazz festival. Past performers include the likes of Elton John, Tony Bennett and B.B. King. Orvieto’s cold-weather iteration, Umbria Jazz Winter, takes place the week between Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Then, on Capodanno (New Year’s Day), secure a seat in the Duomo to experience something you don’t see every day: a Roman Catholic mass with hymns sung by an American gospel choir.
If you are keen to experience slow life in the hill side towns head to Perugia, Orvieto, Gubbio, Todi, Spoleto. Or visit even smaller centres, such as Montefalco, Bevagna, Spello, Trevi, Bettona, Città di Castello, Città della Pieve, Montone, Monte Santa Maria Tiberina and more.
And not to forget Assisi, the birthplace of Saint Francis – it is home to one of the most impressive churches in all of Italy. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the basilica contains frescoes by Giotto and other master artists of the time. Construction began on the Franciscan holy place in 1228 and was completed 25 years later. Unique for its upper and lower churches and stunning Gothic façade, each year millions of pilgrims visit the tomb of Saint Francis located in the lower sanctuary.
3. The amazing food and wine that you can experience here
Umbrian cooking is heavy on meat and game, as well as on big flavors such as truffles and porcini mushrooms. In Umbria you can eat fresh truffle all the year round, its woods are full of them. In the summer taste the black truffle, less scented than the white one, but excellent for bruschetta or for a large dish of Strangozzi. In autumn try the precious white truffle with a heady scent, excellent on the top of a dish of Tagliatelle.
In addition to the truffle, taste
- Salami and cheeses made according to old traditions,
- The extra virgin olive oil, still produced in mills with millstones,
- The Porchetta, the roasted pork always present in every market and local feast,
- Handmade pasta made with a rolling pin,
- Rich sauces such as the goose one, especially made on Ferragosto.
Each Umbrian village or town has its typical dishes or products so take time to explore them.
Umbrian wines are exclusive, the Sagrantino di Montefalco is the rarest and most famous Umbrian wine in the world. It is made only from 100% Sagrantino grapes from Montefalco: the microclimate gives a peculiar flavor to these grapes. A full-bodied wine to drink together with red or roasted meat and rich sauces.
Also discover the Rosso di Montefalco, made from Sagrantino and Sangiovese grapes, and the excellent white wines from Lake Trasimeno area such as the Grechetto or the Orvieto classico, from Orvieto vineyards.
4. The affordable and comfortable life
The region is characterized by villages that have remained intact and authentic, but still offer a full range of services for citizens. The towns are also on a human scale. The buildings have good quality architecture in both new construction and in renovations, with much attention given to green technology, a lot of attention is dedicated to keep the environment clean and avoid unnecessary waste. Everything in Umbria is generally cheaper than in Tuscany. You can enjoy La Dolce Vita country-style at the dining table of an Umbrian vineyard, eating white truffle pasta washed down with a nicely aged Sagrantino for half the price of the same in Florence. And the prices of the property to buy or rent are also significantly lower than in Tuscany, yet the quality of life is on the same level.
5. The slow life
Research published in “Il sole 24 ore”, the most important economic Italian newspaper, has revealed that the Italian region where people live more happily is Umbria. Slow life rhythms are healthier, reduce stress and let you enjoy the daily little things. The landscape and culture are combined with a high life expectancy (it is one of the longest-lived regions of Italy) and help to reduce daily stress. In Umbria you don’t go at great speed: you move at a slower pace.
We chose to live in Castiglione del Lago – the biggest city by the lake Trasimeno. They say that historically it was the fourth island on lake Trasimeno, but with the time the gap between the island and mainland was filled with houses, churches, and other buildings. It is a city of nearly 15 000 inhabitants, a small regional center providing all conveniences needed – several supermarkets, many smaller shops, hospital, schools, sports trainings, musical school and many more.
An amazing lake scenery is the best thing to see and experience in Castiglione del Lago. Several kilometers long coastline offers spectacular mountain views, amazing sunsets and sunrises, fun evenings out in the many cafes and restaurants.
In the old historical city center that is exceptionally well preserved, you need to visit the Rocca del Leone – Fortress of the Lion that was completed in 1247 CE. The castle features square towers in four of its corners and a triangular shaped bastion. The castle was designed to give its owners strategic control over all of Lake Trasimeno. The castle has withstood several sieges over the subsequent centuries.
The Palazzo della Corgna which serves as the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall) was built by Ascanio della Corgna in Renaissance style, designed by the architect Vignola. It is now a civic museum and gallery. The palazzo has a long, covered corridor connecting to the castle. On the main floor, late Renaissance era frescoes were painted by the Pescaro-born artist Giovanni Antonio Pandolfi and the Florentine artist Salvio Savini. In 1574, the artist Niccolò Circignani, known as “Il Pomarancio”, added paintings and other decorations to one of the most interesting rooms in the palazzo, the so-called Room of the Exploits of the overlord Ascanio della Corgna.
The Church of Santa Maria Maddalena, done on a Greek-cross plan, is also located in the historical part of the city. The church has a neo-classical pronaos and, inside, a panel painted in 1580 by Eusebio da San Giorgio.
The slow life in the city is combined with shopping tours in the local market every Wednesday, amazing food in the local restaurants and, of course, the wine of Umbria. On top of that the most kind, simple and welcoming people that live in the city and help us feel welcomed here.
Visit Umbria to enjoy the beautiful, tasty, and blooming life of Italy!